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A Month for Tattoos

The exchanging of tattoos has been one of the absolute highlights of my time here in Cape Town. It started with a promise I made to Brady, back in Durban, to finish his calf tattoo. Once that was complete, Brian and Karin wanted ink too, and then it seemed like every second or third night, someone was getting […]

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Cape Town

The kids eat breakfast, tell us that their schoolwork is done and dash off to see their friends. There are two kid boats here right now (Eva and Yemaya) and five extra kids mean that there is never a dull moment for them. Vick and I take advantage of this new freedom to explore the […]

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Jeremy Loops @ Kirstenbosch

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Honouring This Life

I sail down this cold desolate coast tonight—phosphorescent bow wake shooting up the hull as I drop-in to mother ocean’s perpetual half pipe—and I find myself wondering if I am honouring this one precious life, to the best of my ability. It happens at least once a week (when we are in port) that someone […]

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New Year’s Ink

The tradition of [European] sailors tattooing each other dates back to the 1700s when Captain Cook’s crew picked up the practice from the Polynesians. Since then, countless sailors have followed in their intrepid wake. I have chronicled some of my own experiences here, and here, but haven’t spoken much about how we adopted this tradition or […]

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Famadihada: The Turning of the Dead

Five years ago, a teenage boy died in the small Malagasy village of Antanambe. He was buried, as is his family custom, with all of his relatives, in a small plot cleared from the rain-forest in Verezanantsoro National Park. Here he awaits the decay of his corporeal form, so that he may finally join the […]

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St Gabriel Hike

Alicia, from the boat On Verra, has been organizing hikes for the cruisers nearly every day that we’ve been here. It’s one of the best cruiser services I’ve ever experienced because it helps us to see the natural beauty of the island, and gives us a much needed endorphin hit and kick in the pants […]

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Days to Remember

A few days ago I was told that my dorades were dusty. The next day another person mentioned how dirty my decks were. And yet another person asked me why I had so much crap in my cockpit. All of these criticisms hit me deeply and personally and brought back every single boat insult ever […]

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Thaispusam in Penang

We had an Uber driver recently that asked us if we would be in Penang for Thaipusam.  He was part way through forty days of  preparation, fasting, celibacy and not shaving in advance of this important Tamil Hindu holiday commentating the God Murugan,  representing goodness over evil. Because our stay in Penang was much longer […]

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Yard Dog’s Christmas

We have been in the boat yard for two weeks now. Things are moving along at the expected pace (slower than I would hope, but reasonable for this oppressive climate). The boat is covered, and has its first coat of primer. The propeller shaft is off, the old swim ladder (which has been held captive by […]

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