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Namibia: A Tease

Here are a few of the things that we saw when the fog cleared on our newest anchorage. More to come  

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A Month for Tattoos

The exchanging of tattoos has been one of the absolute highlights of my time here in Cape Town. It started with a promise I made to Brady, back in Durban, to finish his calf tattoo. Once that was complete, Brian and Karin wanted ink too, and then it seemed like every second or third night, someone was getting […]

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Cape Town

The kids eat breakfast, tell us that their schoolwork is done and dash off to see their friends. There are two kid boats here right now (Eva and Yemaya) and five extra kids mean that there is never a dull moment for them. Vick and I take advantage of this new freedom to explore the […]

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Honouring This Life

I sail down this cold desolate coast tonight—phosphorescent bow wake shooting up the hull as I drop-in to mother ocean’s perpetual half pipe—and I find myself wondering if I am honouring this one precious life, to the best of my ability. It happens at least once a week (when we are in port) that someone […]

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New Year’s Ink

The tradition of [European] sailors tattooing each other dates back to the 1700s when Captain Cook’s crew picked up the practice from the Polynesians. Since then, countless sailors have followed in their intrepid wake. I have chronicled some of my own experiences here, and here, but haven’t spoken much about how we adopted this tradition or […]

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Madagascar’s End

This is where we bid au revoir to this country that has fascinated us with its warmth, diversity, creatures, landscape, and spirit. Majhunga, a city that cruisers alternately describe as “too dangerous” or “enchanting” is far from the crystal clear water of Tany Kely, but promises an easy clearance and provisioning for our trip across […]

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Tany Kely – Sea Turtle

Yesterday I unlocked a life achievement. While snorkeling at Tany Kely, I noticed a sea turtle. He was having a leisurely lunch on the reef far below. It was deeper than I normally free dive, but I wanted to chill with him so badly that I just took a breath and went for it.

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Nosy Komba

We have seen lemurs already (in Russian Bay) but all of us were excited to have a better introduction to them at the (locally) famed Nosy Komba lemur park. The island is a weird mix of eco-tourism and authentic Malagash culture. It’s like a cleaned up Nosy Be. The pathways were all kept immaculate and […]

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Madagascar: In Photos

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Famadihada: The Turning of the Dead

Five years ago, a teenage boy died in the small Malagasy village of Antanambe. He was buried, as is his family custom, with all of his relatives, in a small plot cleared from the rain-forest in Verezanantsoro National Park. Here he awaits the decay of his corporeal form, so that he may finally join the […]

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